Method of making shoes



Jan. 19', 1926, 1,570,067

"'F. N. LA CHAPELLE METHOD OF MAKING snoss Filed March 28, 1919 5 Sheets-Sheet 5 Jan. 19 192 1,570,067 7 N. ITAVCHAPELLE' v I METHOfi'UF HIKING SHOES 7 Filed March 28, 1919 ,5 Sheets-Sheet 5 ings, for example, stitches,

Patented Jan. 19,1926.

v J 1,570,067 M riam OFFICE.

FRED N. LA CHAPELLE, OE BEVERLY, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOB TO UNITED SHOE MACHINERY CORPORATION, OF PATERSO N, NEW

NEN JERSEY.

JERSEY, A CORPORATION 0] METHOD OF MAKING SHOES.

Application filed March 28, 1919. Serial No. 285,804.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, FRED N. LA CHAPELLE, a citizen of the United States, residing at Beverly, in the county of Essex and State of Massachusetts, have invented certain Improvements in Methods of Making Shoes, of which the following description, in connection with the accompanying drawings, is a specification, like reference characters on the drawings indicating like parts in the several figures. 1

This invention relates to methods of lasting and sewing the uppers of boots and shoes progressively and of treating the shoe uppers prior toy and during the lasting and sewing operations.

Heretofore, in lasting shoes, it has been a usual practice to pull the upper over the last in a pulling-over machine or otherwise, and then progressively to last, for example, the side portions b tensioning successive portions of the upper to an'extent determined by yielding gripping means which applies to the upper a predetermined tension and then securing the tensioned upper in lasted position. To insure that the gripper shall be able properly to seize the upper and to take care of different extents to which the upper is pulled by the yielding pulling mechanism because of varying amounts which the upper may be stretched, it has been necessary to provide considerably more material in the upper margin than is necessary to afford a secure hold for the fastenby which the upper is permanently secured to the innersole. This excess of upper material has to be trimmed off after the inseaming or welting operation upon the shoe and represents a loss which it is an objectof this invention to minimize. By the method of the present r tinguished from invention a predetermined line on the upper is brought into a predetermined relation to a predetermined line on the innersole, as dis applying to the upper a predetermined tension, and this is to be recognized as an important characteristic of the invention.

In connection with the novel procedure of pulling or drawing the upper to a predetermined extent, the invention also provides improved procedure for the cutting of the with special reference to the last over upper to he fitted so. that the edge of irhi ch it is the upper along the sides will bear a predetermined relation to a fixedpart of the shoe, for example, to the edge face of the innersole or, in a welt shoe, to the innersole rib or lip. For example, the upper may advantageously be cut so that its edge, before lasting and when merely laid against the lastwithout tension, will lie substantially parallel with the edge of the innersole and with the edge of the last bottom. In the lasting operation, by drawing the upper to a predetermined extent the edge of the upper is brought into proper relation to the margin of the innersole or to the innersole rib to be secured thereto, for example, as herein shown, by stitches. By this procedure it is unnecessary to provide any substantial excess of upper material to betrimmed ofi after the upper is secured to the innersole by the usual inseaming 0r welting operation.

In carrying out the above described method in practice, it is desirable so to prepare the upper that the hold obtained by per or other lasting means will always be at a pretermined point relatively to the edge of the upper. As one way of securing this result, the upper, as hereinshown, is pro vided with a bead along its edge and the upper is pulled to a predetermined limit by engagement of the lasting means with the bead. Consequently a predetermined movement of the lasting means will draw the upper to a predetermined extent. The upper may be gripped below the bead and the gripping means slipped on the upper until the bead is engaged by it In a further aspect the invention consists in tensioning the lining of the upper before the upper leather is tensioned. This is effected by seizing the upper below the bead, rubbing the upper toward the head on one side and pulling the lining on the other side. The upper is then tensioned by a positive pull applied to the head.

In the foregoing, reference has been made particularly to the lasting of an upper at the sides of the shoe and to the securing of the upper in lasted position by stitches. It is contemplated also to attach a welt in conjunction with the lasting operation, in which case the welt is secured with the lasted up per on one side of the shoe'by the same means used to secure the upper to the rib, the welting operation is carried on around the toe of the shoe, and the lasting and welting operations performed along the second side of the shoe. In this operation the toe portion of the shoe is preferably previously lasted on a bed machine or has been molded to fit the toe of the last by proper formation of the marginal portion to fit the feather and rib of the innersole. In operating on a shoe toe thus lasted or molded, the lasting and welting operations are first car ried on along one side of the shoe, the lasting operation is discontinued during the welting oi the toe and is resumed on the second side of the shoe after the toe has been welted.

These and other aspects of the invention will appear more fully from the following description when read in connection with the accompanying drawings and will be pointed out in the appended claims.

In the drawings,

Fig. 1 is a side elevation of a machine embodying this invention and adapted for use in the practice of my method;

Fi 2 is a plan view of the machine:

Fig. 3 illustrates a last and innersole from which certain measurements are taken in accordance with my method;

Fig. 4 illustrates a shoe upper prepared in accordance with my method;

Fig. 5 is a view of a last and innersole with an upper prepared in accordance with my method applied thereto, and having its toe portion lasted;

Figs. 6 and 7 illustrate successive positions of a shoe upper upon which my method is being practiced;

Fig. 8 is an elevation, partly in section, of a machine in the act of initiating the lasting operation;

Fig. 9 is a detail illustrating a modification of parts shown in Fig. 8; and

Fig. 10 is an elevation of the machine with the gripper in an inoperative position and illustrating the application of a welt to the toe portion of the shoe.

To insure economy of upper leather in the manufacture of shoes, it is important that the upper be designed and out with special reference to the part of the last over which it is to be lasted. In the completed shoe, if properly made, the upper edge of the vamp, in -a low shoe and the seam joining the top and vamp in a high shoe, will lie along a line located definitely with reference to the edge of the last bottom and with reference to a line uniformly spaced from the edge of the innersole, for instance the innersole rib. Shoe uppers are usually out without definite reference to the width which the vamp should have in the completed shoe, ample material being provided along the sides of the shank to enable the lasting gripper to seize the marginal portion for applying thereto a predetermined tension to lay the upper against the last bottom where it is secured temporarily by tacks. After the inseaming and welting operations, the excess of material, which is considerable and is necessitated by the usual iorm oi. gripper and method of tensioning the upper, is trimmed oil and represents a very considerable loss of upper material.

By my improved method the width of the vamp or the upper is designed with reference to its last so that when the margin or seam of the vamp lies along the side at the last in the proper relation "for a given shoe design, the vamp will be of the proper width so that when its edge is brought to a line where it is to be secured, for instance, the rib of the innersole, the proper tension have been applied to the upper. This method may be conveniently carried out by taking various measurements from the last, preferably with an innersole thereon, from an actual or imaginary line where the vamp seam should be located relatively to the last, to the innersole rib in directions substantially perpendicular to the said line and then using these measurements in preparing the pattern for he vamp. In Fig. 8 is shown a last with an innersole attached thereto and the line a, 7) and (1 represent examples of the measurements above referred to. The pattern will be prepared by using these measurements to indicate the width of the vamp and the upper cut from the pattern which will appear as in Fig. 43, the vamp having the dimensions a, Z) and c which correspond to the dimensions a, Z) and 0 taken from the last. Of course, in preparing patterns allowance will be made for the amount the materiel is to be stretched and this amount may be varied at difierent points if desired, the essential. consideration in this step being that the edge of the prepared upper shall bear a predetermined relation to a. tired line on the innersole, for example, the innersole rib.

If desired, measurements may be talten on both sides of the last in designing a pattern, and the pattern reversed in cutting the uppers so that uppers for right and left lasts will be produced. This is desirable where the last has a decided undercut on the inner side oi the shank, thus requiring more material to reach the innersole rib on this side of the shoe than on the other.

After cutting the upper by the method described, a bead (Z is formed on the margin of the upper adjacent to its edge, preferably as near as possible to the edge. This bead may be conveniently formed by sewing a cord to the upper closely adjacent to its edge. The upper is next molded at the toe and if desired at the heel to the shape of the toe and heel ends of the last and formed at the toe with an inturned portion to cover the feather of: the insole, and an upstanding gem innersole is used.

l result shown in Fig. 7.

has engaged movement flange to be secured to the rib. Alternatively the upper may be placed upon its last and lasted at the toe and also,- if desired, at the'heel, for example, on a bed machine. 'In this case the upper at the toe is temporarily secured in place in the usual manner by a binding wire f, as shown in Fig. 5, which represents the last and upper as prepared by the practice of the method as thus far explained and ready for the steps of lasting and securing the upper which may conveniently be performed by the machine of the present invention. Referring to Fig. 5, it will be seen that the bead d lies along the side of the shoe at a predetermined short distance from the adge g of the innersole and hence also from the rib h. The distance from the innersole rib to the head will be determined by the amount which the upper should be tensioned in lasting and the eX- tensibility of the upper materials employed. For the operation of side lasting the upper before welting, the shoe is presented to the machine as shown in Fig. 8, being positioned by a shoe rest 2 which is. operated similarly to the usual channel guide of a sewing machine. The rest lies in the channel back of the rib or against the rear face of the rib if The rest'is preferably provided with a feed point and is actuated in the usual manner to effect feeding of the shoe to the sewing mechanism. The rest 2 positions the shoe for the action of a gripper comprising co-operating jaws 4 and 6, the jaw 6 being, as shown, movable relatively to the jaw i. The jaw closing mecha nism may, as shown, be similar to that disclosed and claimed in United States Letters Patent No. 1,005,234 granted October 10, 1911 on application of Ladd & Stiggins, and need not be herein specifically described, it being understood that mechanism is provided, as will hereinafter appear, for moving the rod 8 downwardly relatively to a member 10 carrying the'j aw i to effect the closing of the jaw 6 toward the jaw 4 to grip the stock, as shown in Fig. 6. The jaw t is provided with teeth to engage the lining of the upper and the jaw 6 is provided with a lip 12. In Fig. 6 it will be seen that when the jaws have closed the lip 12 is below the bead d of the upper. The gripper 4, 6 and shoe are next moved relatively in a direction perpendicular to the last bottom with the The teeth of the jaw i, being unable to slip on the lining, have tensioned it relatively to the upper leather on which the bead cl is formed, while the jaw 6 has slipped over the upper until it the bead d and has drawn the upper to a predetermined extent, it being understood that the relative movement of the shoe and gripper is predetermined and positive. As shown the gripper "is given a determined, as will hereinafter the gripper jaws.

appear, by a suitable positively acting cam. The construction of the gripper closing cam is such that after the lip 12 has engaged the rib the gripper closing pressure is increased to prevent any possibility of the bead slipping from between the jaws.

It is now necessary to move relatively the shoe and gripper torcause the upper to be brought into proper relation to the innersole rib. In the construction shown an overdraw movement of the gripper .is effected also by a positively acting cam, as will be described. The innersole rib and upper margin are thus brought into the position shown in'Fig. l where the gripper is located directly over the rib of the innersole and the bead cl just above the rib, the upper bridging the angle between the rib and the feather of the innersole. The por- 7 tion of the upper thus positioned is next secured by sewing mechanism includlng a needle 32 which 1s actuated to pass through the upper and between substance or rib, the

sewing mechanism acting to form a chain stitch the chain of which lies in the .channel of the innersole or on the inner side of the innersole rib. The tightening of the stitch draws the upper into the angle between the rib of the innersole and the feather. After the needle enters the work the gripper is released from the upper and the shoe and gripper move relatively to enable the gripper to treat another portion of the upper, the feed movement being effected in the present instance by movement of the shoe rest 2, as described. After the upper has been secured at one point the gripper does not need to be removed from engagement with the upper but the bead and upper may lie continuously between the gripper jaws which are moved, as described, to seize, updraw and overdraw successive portions of the upper. Since the gripper is positively actuated, ithas no tendency to jump away from the work when its grip thereon is relieved as is the case with a yieldingly operated gripper, and hence it is possible for the upper to remain continuously between Preferably the organization is such that at only one point in the cycle does the gripper open sufficiently to allow the bead to pass in or out of the jaws. This point is shown in Fig. 8. The machine is preferably provided with a suitable stop mechanism to cause the machine to stop at the point shown in Fig. 8 with the gripper open. After the upper has been secured to the rib at one point at the beginning of the lasting operation the bead cannot slip from between'the jaws during the brief inter-val when they are open, as shown in Fig. 8. I

After one side of the shoe has been lasted and secured, as described, the other side of the shoe may be lasted and. secured in a similar manner. The shoe is now ready for the welting operation by which a welt is secured to the upper and innersole rib continuously from a point in front of the heel seat along the side of the shoe around the lasted toe and along the other side of the shoe to the heel seat.

In order to av id a separate welting operation upon the shoe, it is contemplated to provide the machine with a welt guide, as shown in Fig. 10, and to sew a welt 70 to the upper and innersole in conjunction with the lasting operation described. In this case, since the upper is already lasted at the toe, the gripper cannot be used there. Accordingly, after the welt has been secured along one side of the shoe in conjunction with the lasting operation, the gripper is moved out of operative relation to the upper and the welting operation carried on about the toe of the shoe, the gripper being then moved back into operative position to efiect the lasting of the second side of the shoe in conjunction with the welting operation upon that side.

The mechanism for effecting the described operations of the gripper and sewing mechanism will now be more particularly explained. The sewing mechanism may be of any usual or convenient construction and as shown herein is substantially similar to that of the well known welt and turn sewing machine disclosed, for example, in United States Letters Patent No. 412,704, granted October 8, 1889, on application of French & Meyer. It has been found possible, however, to simplify the sewing mechanism by dispensing with the awl, so-called, which, in the construction of the patent referred to, comprises a prick point operated to engage the work in the channel and to move transversely of the machine to feed the work. In the constructionshown herein the work rest 2 is provided with a feed point to engage in the channel or behind the rib of the innersole and is operated toward and from the rib about a pivot 20 on a transverse slide 22 by an edge cam 23 (Figs. 1 and 8) on a cam shaft 25, the slide 22 being moved to feed the work by a lever 24 having a fulcrum at 26, a connection to the slide 22 at 28 and operated by a suitable path cam engaging a roll 30 (Fig. 1).

The stitch forming mechanism, which is of usual construction, comprises the curved hooked needle 32 mounted in a needle carrier pivoted at 33 and operated by connections to a lever 34 operated by a. suitable cam on the shaft 25. The thread passes through a looper 35 on a lever 36 which is operated by the usual cams to lay the thread in the hook of the needle 32. A thread holder 37 which measures ofi' the thread for the stitch is operated as usual by a cam acting in a lever 38 shown as broken away in Fig. 2

The gripper operating mechanism is best shown in Figs. 2 and 8. In Fig. 2, 40 is the cam operated arm of a gripper closing lever and and the cam operated arms of the updraw and overdraw levers respectively, being the rearwardly extending arm of an overdraw lever proper which is connected to the arm 60, as will later appear. These parts are all fulcrumed on a shaft extending parallel with the main cam shaft 25. The arms 40, 50 and 60 are all of equal length and carry respectively cam rolls 41, 51 and 61 which engage cam paths in cam blocksSO, 91 on the shaft 25, the cam paths being designed to effect the desired operation of the gripper as set forth. The forwardly extending arm 42 of the gripper closing lever is formed at its end, as shown in section in Fig. 8, with a socket into which is threaded a sleeve 43. A plunger 9 extends through the lower end of the socket and through the upper end of the sleeve 43, its downward movement being limited by a flange 44. Between the flange 44 and the upper end of the sleeve is a relatively strong spring 45 through which downward pressure is imparted to the rod 8 by operation of the lever 40, 42 to effect a yielding closing of the jaw 6 against the jaw 4. The sleeve 43 may be turned to vary the tension of the spring 45 and hence the closing pressure of the gripper. The gripper jaw member 6 is connected by links 46 to the member 10 and by a link 47 to the rod 8, the upper portion of the member 6 being operated by a cam 48 to close the jaws as the jaw member 6 is moved downwardly and the gripper being opened by a light spring 49.

The forward arm 52 of the updraw lever is pivoted at 53 to the member 10 through which it imparts a positive up and down' bodily movement'of predetermined extent to the gripper. To balance the updraw pull the arm is connected by a rigid web 54 to a link 56 also pivoted to the shaft 80 and to the member 10 on the opposite side from the arm 52. This construction will be clear from Fig. 2.

The overdraw mechanism comprises the arm 60 mounted on the shaft 80 and actuated by a cam acting on the roll 61 and the angle lever comprising arms 7 O, 71 (Fig. 2) also pivoted on the shaft 80, as above stated. The arm 71 is connected to the gripper member 10 by links 72 which are preferably connected together by a web 73, as shown in dotted lines in Fig. 2, the rigidity and positiveness of their action being thereby increased. On the arm 70 of the angle lever is a boss 74 (Figs. 8 and 9) on which rests a sleeve 75. A rod 7 6 pivoted to the arm 60 at 62 passes up through the boss 74 and sleeve 7 5 and above the sleeve carries a washer 77 and a thumb nut 78 threaded on the rod. On the arm 60 is a lug 64 which I treadle (not shown).

is engaged by a screw 66 threaded through an ear 6? formed on the hub of the angle lever 70, 71 and offset to overlie the arm 60 (Fig. 2). When the thumb nut 7 8 and the screw 66 are set up the arms 60 and 70 act as one and constitute the operating means by which the arm 71 is caused to effect the overdraw movement of the gripper. By adjusting both the nut 7 8 and the screw 66 the relation of the cam arm 60 to the gripper operating arm 71 may be varied to adjust the position of the limits of overdraw movement of the gripper while still maintaining the positive operation of the overdraw. By substituting for the sleeve 75 a spring 79, as shown in Fig. 3, the overdraw movement of the gripper may be rendered yielding as may be desirable for some uses of the machine, the screw 66 being then employed for adjusting the initial position of the gripper for its updraw and overdraw movement, the overdraw tension being effected through the the spring 7 9 the tension of which may be varied by turning the nut 78.

The construction by which the gripper may be moved out of operative position will now be explained. The shaft (Fig. 2) has its ends mounted in arms 82, 84 respectively. The other ends of the arms 82, 84 are secured respectively to shafts 86, 88 mounted one in each end portion 92 of the frame. The shaft 88 has fixed thereto an arm 94 having its end pivotally connected to a push rod 96 which extends down to a suitable WVhen the rod 96 is pushed up by the treadle the parts will assume the position shown in Fig. 10 and the gripper will be moved out of operative relation to the shoe upper. The upward push of the rod 96 lifts the arm 94 which, acting through the shaft 88 and arm 84. will lift the shaft 80 bodily carrying with it all the gripper operating levers. This causes the cam rolls 41, 51, 61 to move forward in their cam paths without disturbing their opertive relation to the cams and effects an upward and outward movement of the gripper jaws by bodily movement of the gripper. By downward movement of the rod 96 the gripper is restored to operative position, a stop 98 being provided on the frame 92 to limit such movement of the arm 94.

In Fig. 10 is shown the toe of a shoe having the upper lasted and held by a toe binding wire f and the machine operating thereon to sew a welt about the toe, it being understood, of course, that the first side of the shoe has already been lasted and welted by the use of the gripper and sewing mechanism. The welt is guided by a welt guide 100 of any usual or convenient construction and the needle 32 and sewing mechanism act to sew the welt, upper and between substance of the innersole together. After the welt has been secured about the toe portion the rod 96 is moved downwardly to restore the gripper to operative position and the lasting and welting is continuedalong the second side of the shoe to the heel seat.

The machine shown and described is not claimed herein since it forms the subjectmatter of a divisional application Serial No. 24,400, filed April 20,1925.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Let ters Patent of the United States is:

1. That improvement in methods of inaking shoes which consists in cutting an upper short by a predetermined allowance for stretching of the upper, assembling the upper with an innersole on a last, successively bringing portions of the edge of the upper by a positive predetermined pull applied transversely of its edge to a predetermined point on the innersole, and permanently securing said portions of the upper success'ively.

2. That improvement in methods of mak-. ing shoes which consists in locating the vamp line on a last in predetermined proper relation to the last, measured from the vamp line to a predetermined position relative to the rib of an innersole on the last. cutting an upper short ofthe length required for the edge of the untensioned upper to reach to said predetermined position, assembling the upper on the lastand bringing the upper under tension to said predetermined position relative to the rib, and securing the.

upper.

3. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in providing an upper with a bead, successively gripping portions of the upper in the same marginal line relatively to the last bottom, slipping the gripping means along the upper to engage the bead, then updrawing and overdrawing the upper to a predetermined extent, and securing the upper below the bead to the sole.

4. That-improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in cutting a shoe upper by measurements taken from the last in such manner that the extent of upper material will be sufficient when assembled on a last and tensionedto reach the rib of the innersole and no more, then assembling the upper on a last, tensioning the upper, and securing the extreme'margin-of the upper to the innersolerib.

5. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in cutting a'shoe upperby measurements taken from the last in such manner that the extent of upper material at the sides and shank will when placed under lasting tension be sufficient to reach only to a predetermined line on the in- 6. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in cutting a shoe upper by measurements taken from the last in such manner that the extent of upper material will be sufficient, when its edge is moved a predetermined distance to put the upper under proper lasting tension, to reach into predetermined relation to the rib of the innersole, and substantially no farther, then moving the edge of the upper into said predetermined relation to the rib of the innersole, and permanently securing the margin of the upper to the innersole rib along a line at a predetermined distance from the edge of the upper.

7. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in preparing an upper with a bead adjacent to its edge, seizing the upper below the bead, rubbing the upper toward the head on one side and pulling the lining on the other side, then tensioning the upper by tension applied to the bead.

8. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in preparing an upper with a bead on its outer face substantially at its edge, seizing the upper below the bead, rubbing the upper toward the bead on one side and pulling the lining toward the bead on the other side, then tensioning the upper by tension applied both to the bead and to the lining, and securing the upper and lining permanently to the innersole.

9. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in preparing an upper with a bead arranged adjacent to its edge, operating upon successive portions of the upper pro ressively by seizing the upper below the bead, rubbing the upper toward the bead on one side and pulling the lining toward the bead on the other side, then tensioning the upper by tension applied to the bead.

10. That improvement in methods of making shoes 'which consists in preparing an upper with a bead arranged adjacent to its edge, and a lining free from the upper and bead, applying a frictional rubbing to the upper and lining from a point below the bead until the bead is engaged, and then pulling the upper to a predetermined limit after engagement with the bead and securing the upper to the rib of an innersole.

11. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in preparing an upper with a bead arranged adjacent to its edge, then pulling successive portions of the upper to a predetermined limit by engagement with the bead, and progressively and permanently securing said port-ions to the rib of an innersole by fastening inserted transversely of the heightwise dimension of the rib.

12. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in preparing an upper with a bead arranged adjacent to its edge, applying a frictional rubbing to the upper from a point below the bead until the bead is engaged, then pulling the upper to bring the bead into predetermined relation to a fixed line on the innersole by movement of the bead, and sewing the upper to the innersole along a line parallel to said fixed line.

18. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in preparing an upper for its last in s eh manner that the edge of the upper will lie a predetermined distance from a predetern'iined line on the inner sole, lasting the upper over the last by displacing said edge to a predetermined extent, and inserting permanent tastenings to secure the upper to the innersole.

14:. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in preparing an upper for its last in such manner that the edge of the upper will be a predetermined distance from a predetermined line on the innersole, lasting the upper over the last by displacing said edge so that it will lie on said predetermined line, and inserting per manent fastenings to secure the upper to the innersole within said line.

15. That in'iprovement in methods of making shoes which consists in preparing an upper for its last in such manner that a predetermined line on the upper will lie at a predetermined distance from a predetermined line on the sole, tensioning the upper over the last by bringing the upper at said line into close relation to said line on the sole, and inserting permanent fastenings to secure the upper to the sole within said line on the upper and at a uniform distance from the line on the upper.

16. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in cutting an upper so that when its edge is disposed in securing relation to a predetermined line on the rib of the innersole upon the last the proper tension will be applied thereto, then progressively bringing said edge into said relation, and securing the upper to the innersole rib progressively.

17. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in cutting an upper with reference to its last with an innersole thereon sothat when its edge is disposed in a uniform relation to the rib of the innersole upon the last the proper tension will be applied thereto, then successively bringing portions of said edge into said relation, and progressively securing the upper to the innersole rib by i astenings inserted through the upper and rib.

18. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in cutting an upper so that when placed upon a last having an innersole thereon its edge will be disposed at a uniform distance from the rib of the. innersole upon the last, assembling the upper on the last, then bringing successive portions of said edge into securing relation to said rib, and progressively and permanently securing the upper to the rib by inserting fastenings which remain in the shoe.

19. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in preparing a shoe upper in such manner that the upper, when it is assembled on its last and its edge is positioned in a predetermined relation to the line. along which it is to be secured, will have been properly tensioned, then so assembling and positioning the upper, and then securing the upper along said line by fastenings which remain permanently in the shoe.

20. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in preparing a shoe upper in such manner that the upper,

when its edge is brought into a predeter:

mined relation to the rib on the innersole along which it is to be secured, will have been properly tensioned, assembling the upper, then tensioning the upper to bring it into said relation to the rib, and then permanently securing the upper to the rib by tastenings inserted through the upper and rib.

21. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in preparing a shoe upper in such manner that the upper, when its edge is brought into a predetermined relation to the line along which it is to be secured, will have been properly tensioned, then assembling the upper upon a last having a sole thereon and progressively tensioning successive portions of the upper to bring it into said relation, and progressively securing the upper along said line by tastenings inserted in a plane substantially parallel to the plane of the sole.

22. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in cutting a shoe upper by measurements taken from the last in such manner that the extent of upper material will lie at a predetermined distance from the rib of the innersole, providing the edge of the upper with a bead, assembling the upper on its last, progressively tensioning successive portions of the upper about the last by pulls or predetermined extent applied to the upper at said bead to locate the edge of the upper in proximity to the rib of the innersole, and securing the upper to the innersole by permanent fastenings.

23. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in cutting a shoe upper in suchmanner that the extent of uppermaterial at the sides and shank will be suficientwhen tensioned over its last to reach the rib of the innersole, proriding the edge of the upper with a bead,

upper by measurements taken from the last in such mann r that the'eXtent of upper material at the sides and shank will be sur'licient when placed under proper tension to reach the rib of the innersole, providing the edge of the upper with a bead, assembling the upper upon the last, successively tensioning portions of the upper about the last by pulls of predetermined extent applied to the upper at said head, and securing the upper per :ianently to the innersole.

25. That improvement in the art of making shoes which consists in preparing a last with an innersole thereon, taking a series of measurements from a line along the last where the top edge of the vamp is to lie to a predetermined line on the innersole, preparing a pattern smaller than the measurements taken to make allowance for the stretch to be taken upon the upper, cutting an upper from the pattern, applying the upper to the last, tensioning successive portions of the upper to a predetermined extent, and securing the margin to the innersole along said predetermined line.

26. That improvement in the art of making shoes which consists in preparing a last with an innersole thereon, taking a series of measurements from a line along the last where the top edge of the vamp is to lie to a predetermined line on the innersole, preparing a pattern from the measurements taken making allowance for the stretch to be taken from the upper by lessening the dimensions of the pattern where the stock is to be tensioned and in proportion to the amount of tension desired, cutting an upper from the pattern, applying the upper to the last, positively displacing successive'portions of the upper to locate its edge at said predetermined line on the innersole, and progressively securing the margin to the innersole along said predetermined line.

27. That improvement in the art of making shoes which consists in preparing a last with an innersole thereon, taking a series of measurements from the last from a line on the last to a predetermined line on the in last, tensioning successive portions of the upper, and securing the margin to the innersole along said predetermined line.

28. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in assembling an upper on a last, shaping its too portion to the last, lasting and welting a side of the shoe, then welting the toe, and then lasting and welting the second side of the shoe.

29. That iuiproven'ient in methods of making shoes which consists in assembling an upper and ribbed innersole upon a last, shaping the toe portion only of the upper to the shape of the toe oi the last and securing it temporarily in place, progressively lasting a side of the upper from the heel seat toward the toe while permanently securing a welt with the upper to the innersole rib, discontinuing the lasting operation while securing the welt and upper to the rib about the shoe toe, and then progressively lasting the second side of the shoe in a direction from the toe toward the heel seat and securing the welt and upper to the innersole rib.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification.

FRED N. LA CHAPELLE. 

